Viennese Potato Salad – The Eternal Debate and the Best Recipe

Few dishes divide Viennese opinion quite as reliably as potato salad. Warm or cold? With mayonnaise or without? Tangy with vinegar or mild? Every family has their own recipe, which is naturally the only correct one – and woe betide anyone who makes it differently. At Mitzitant, we have a clear view on the matter. But more on that shortly.

One thing is certain: without potato salad, Austrian cuisine simply doesn't work. It belongs with Wiener Schnitzel the way a fork belongs with a knife, with Schweinsbraten the way caraway belongs with the crackling, and with summer the way a Schanigarten belongs with the evening sun.

The potato salad is as old as the potato itself in Austria. After potatoes became a staple food in the Habsburg Monarchy in the 18th century, regional preparations quickly developed. The Viennese version – served lukewarm, with a dressing of beef broth, vinegar and oil – is considered the classic today. It deliberately differs from the German version with mayonnaise, even though that version also has its loyal following in Austria. In the Wirtshaus, potato salad has always been more than just a side dish. It was a sign of care in the kitchen: anyone who makes a good potato salad makes everything else well too.

Which potatoes for potato salad?

This is the question most people ask first – and the right answer makes the biggest difference. For Wiener potato salad, you need exclusively waxy varieties. Only these hold their shape when cooked and mixed, rather than turning to mush.

The best varieties for potato salad are:

• Kipfler – the queen of salad potatoes. Nutty in flavour, firm to bite, ideal for the Viennese style.

• Ditta – also very popular, slightly milder, widely available.

• La Ratte – delicate, slightly buttery flavour, for those who like something a little more special.

Floury varieties have no place here – they fall apart and turn the salad into a purée. Mostly waxy varieties like Sieglinde will do in a pinch, but are not the first choice.

Which vinegar for Wiener potato salad?

Opinions differ here too. The classic choice in Viennese Wirtshaus cooking is mild white wine vinegar – it gives the salad the necessary acidity without becoming too dominant. What matters is that it really is mild: a too-sharp vinegar overwhelms everything else.

Alternatives that also work well:

• Apple cider vinegar – slightly fruitier, harmonises well with the beef broth.

• Tarragon vinegar – classically Austrian, adds a subtle herbal note.

What you should not use: balsamic (too sweet and too intense) or undiluted wine vinegar (too sharp). Fruit vinegars with a strong flavour of their own also distract from the potato.

Mitzitant's rule of thumb: You should taste the vinegar, but not be startled by it.

Recipe: Wiener potato salad as served at Mitzitant

Ingredients (serves 4)

• approx. 800 g waxy potatoes (Kipfler or Ditta ideally)

• 1 medium onion

• 150 ml warm beef broth

• 4 tbsp mild white wine vinegar (or apple cider vinegar or tarragon vinegar)

• 5 tbsp sunflower oil

• 1 tsp medium mustard

• salt and pepper

• a little sugar

• fresh chives to garnish

Method

1. Cook the potatoes Cook the potatoes unpeeled in well-salted water until tender – depending on size, this takes 20 to 30 minutes. Peel while still hot and slice into even rounds.

2. Prepare the onion Finely dice the onion. For a milder flavour, briefly blanch the diced onion in hot water.

3. Mix the dressing Combine the beef broth, vinegar, oil and mustard and season well with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. The dressing should be well-seasoned and slightly tangy.

4. Combine everything Place the still-warm potato slices and diced onion in a bowl and pour the warm dressing over immediately. Mix well but carefully so the slices stay intact.

5. Leave to rest Allow the salad to rest for at least 30 minutes – it must draw together so the flavours can develop. If you have time: an hour is even better.

6. Season and serve Taste again before serving, scatter with fresh chives and refine with a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil if desired.

Mitzitant's tips for the perfect potato salad

1. Kipfler, not floury: The variety is everything. Waxy potatoes like Kipfler or Ditta hold their shape – floury ones turn to mush.

2. Mild white wine vinegar: No balsamic, no sharp wine vinegar – only mild. You should taste the vinegar, but not be startled by it.

3. Dress while warm: The dressing must go onto the still-warm potatoes – only then do they absorb the flavours properly.

4. Beef broth instead of water: This is the secret of the Viennese flavour. The broth gives the salad depth and body that no water can replace.

5. Patience while resting: A good potato salad needs time. Serve it in a hurry and you serve a mediocre potato salad.

6. And the mayonnaise? Those who like it are of course welcome to add it – but only after resting and only sparingly. In the Wirtshaus, we leave it out. But we don't judge.