Asparagus Season at the Wirtshaus: Spring in Full Swing in Austria

When asparagus season begins in Austria, one of the most enjoyable periods of the culinary year arrives at the table. From mid-April until St John's Day on 24 June, many Wirtshäuser revolve entirely around these tender spears.

"Until St John's, don't forget: seven weeks of asparagus to eat" – this old farmers' saying is still widely known. And it is taken seriously. The harvest traditionally ends on 24 June so the plants can recover. Asparagus grows in the same spot for many years and needs this rest period to shoot strongly again the following season.

In Austrian Wirtshäuser, this season holds a very special place. As soon as the first domestic asparagus is harvested, it appears in the most varied forms on the menu. Regional asparagus – from the Marchfeld or Burgenland in particular – is especially popular, tasting simply best when freshly picked.

Classics from the Wirtshaus kitchen

Many dishes come back to the table year after year because they show asparagus exactly as it is at its best: without fuss, but with plenty of flavour.

• White asparagus with Sauce Hollandaise and parsley potatoes

• Asparagus with melted butter and cooked ham

• A fine asparagus cream soup made from the peelings and trimmings

• Green asparagus with pan-fried fish such as pike-perch or char

• Creamy asparagus risotto with Parmesan

• Asparagus as a side to Wiener Schnitzel

• Asparagus with egg and fresh chives

How to cook asparagus really well

Preparation comes down to a few simple things. Asparagus should be cooked just covered with water, or stood upright in the pot so only the lower parts are submerged. With a lid on, it cooks evenly.

A little flavour in the cooking water is always welcome. Salt is a must. A splash of lemon juice keeps white asparagus looking pale and bright. A little sugar or a piece of bread roll takes away any possible bitterness. Butter in the water, however, is not necessary.

Timing matters too. It is best to buy thicker spears so everything cooks evenly. Anyone who likes asparagus with a little bite should taste it in good time – it continues to cook slightly even after it has been lifted from the water.

Buying, storing and preparing

Fresh asparagus makes itself known immediately. When you rub the spears together, they squeak lightly. They feel firm, barely bend, have moist cut ends and tightly closed tips.

At home, asparagus keeps well too. White asparagus wrapped in a damp cloth will stay fresh in the fridge for a few days. Green asparagus is happiest standing upright in a little water. Anyone who wants to stock up can also freeze asparagus – though it should be peeled and prepared first.

When it comes to peeling, a simple rule applies. White asparagus is peeled thoroughly all the way around, up to just below the tip. Green asparagus usually only needs the lower third peeled and the ends trimmed.

And what is often thrown away can also be put to wonderful use. Peelings and ends make a flavourful stock that forms the perfect base for soups or risotto. Broken spears are excellent for a creamy soup.